As a purveyor of elegant weddings I get asked a lot about ideas for a grooms suit.
Fashion is one of my main source of inspiration and recently I was lucky enough to meet the owner of a home of finest bespoke tailoring, Francesco Trenti from the homonymous Sartoria Trenti in dandy Mayfair.
We were discussing how to incorporate the couples style into a wedding scheme and ideas on how to match a grooms suit, when he invited me to see how he works in his Bottega, the Italian equivalent of Boutique.
And of course, being a luxury fashion lover, before the world fell into a halt, I did pay him a visit, during which I raised a whole lot of questions.
1) What's the idea behind choosing a bespoke grooms suit and how is it different from a designer one?
Designer suits are the easy, off the shelf option: they are on the rack, ready to wear and go.
Bespoke ones are an elevated deliberate, unhurried service and experience. A tailor will use the highest quality materials, their client's precise measurements, for a perfectly fitted garment.
Every single detail in a suit can be customised: your tailor can craft everything to your liking, and help you choose colours that suit your complexion, cut and fabrics.
2) How many styles can a groom choose from?
The styles are pretty much infinite, as all details can be different and custom-made for every client, depending on their taste and physique:
Just to give you an idea a grooms suit can be customised from fabric, suit cut and jacket style, lapels (peak, notch or shawl), buttons and outside pockets, that are, perhaps, more noticeable, to features like buttonholes colour or the lining style. We are happy to guide our clients through all these choices.
3) Are there any rules regarding what suit style to choose from?
I would look at this from a different perspective: what type of wedding is the couple planning? We can pretty much divide the answers in two macro areas : formal/classic and relaxed.
If you are having a formal wedding you can choose from many grooms suit ideas: a tuxedo, white tie, a morning suit, a dinner suit or custom styles that recall the aura of a palace.
Relaxed ceremonies instead require a two piece, three piece or separate suites, with a very vast selection of fabrics ( colours, texture and patterns) to choose from.
4) Tell me about a project you loved working for?
When collecting his latest new suit, one of my best clients told me:" Please do not tell me this is the best one you've made for me as you always do!"
I cannot help it: every project is unique in its way, so I really loved them all.
But if I really have to pick one, I will then say my own wedding suit, a revisitation of a late 1800's morning suit.
5) What is your signature style?
For a formal wedding I would say dinner suit or tuxedo with horseshoe style waistcoat. It's effortless to wear as a 2 piece, but when you unbutton it it reveals the waistcoat as detail.
For a relaxed wedding, 2 piece suit in light navy blue, elevated by a contrast waistcoat.
6) In UK what is the wedding inspiration: trend or tradition?
It is again a difficult question for me to answer, as I believe it depends on the couple's decision, even if they do not realise it.
During our initial consultation I talk them through the whole process, and I try to get to know them as a couple, what's their style, if they are planning a wedding in UK and what's their inspiration, their personalities and how they envision their ceremony and , of course, colour scheme they chose for their big day.
All these details help me understanding who they are so I can guide them through the process of creating of a groom's bespoke attire.
7) Who do you love to work with?
Because of the dedicated time I give to a client, you can get to know them also on a personal level, so I suppose I love to work with someone who have a lot of similar interests to me, like travelling, food or sports.
People that, become regular clients and that, when walking by our shop with five minutes to spare, pop in for a coffee/tea or just to say hi.
8) What can you customise?
The only set in stone rules are our ways to cut and make a garment. Style, colours and finishing can be customised to the client's taste.
One big hit for weddings is tho choose the jacket lining colour accordingly to the colour scheme.
9) Tell me about the fabrics you use? Where are you sourcing them?
We work in tight knit with the best fabric merchants available in Italy, England and France, like Ermenegildo Zegna, Loro Piana, HFW, Harrison's of Edinburgh, Holland and Sherry, Scabal to name a few.
10) Tell me about your company..
Sartoria Trenti is a contemporary tailoring company.
We use classic techniques to cut and give a modern twist to the tiniest details, coming up with grooms suit ideas and styles, incorporating contemporary ways of communicating with our clientele.
We are some of the very few tailors to offer all 3 most famous tailoring school styles: English, Italian, Neapolitan), to better satisfy our clients' needs and preferences: they can choose structured, medium or soft tailoring.
Our consultations can be done also through WhatsApp, FaceTime or Zoom's video calls; this is been implemented recently to comply to social distancing rules standards because of the pandemic.
From consultation to final fitting, our Online Tailor Service is working in full steam: the only difference with our classic bespoke process is that, rather than meeting up at our bottarga or at the client's address (Private Tour Service), we will be meeting via video call.
The perks of modern technology!!
If you'd like to contact Francesco and get yourself a fine art tailor tux or suit, here is how to get in touch:
Francesco Trenti, CEO and Maestro Sarto at "Sartoria Trenti"
+44 (0) 74535 78128
26 Kingly Street, London, W1B 5QB